Part II: Chemical X-ray – Too Faced Melted Matte Liquid Lipstick Colour Queen B – What is inside and what does it do?

As a chemist and beauty junkie, I always look through the ingredients in products, most often out of curiosity, especially on products that worked really well. Since the Too Faced Melted Matte Liquid Lipstick colour Queen B worked so well for me, where a lot of others and other brands failed, I decided to look into its ingredients in detail.

I wrote this down in case this is something that helps or interests you too, with explanations on what each ingredient is doing in the lipstick. This way you can get a better idea of what is doing what and why this lipstick works or doesn’t for you. You don’t need to be a chemist or scientist to understand, I am hoping that I explained everything to be easily understandable by anyone during a coffee break.

If you like this concept let me know and I will make this a Chemical x-ray series on products that I think work well or are holy grail for me. Alternatively, let me know which products you are interested in having a closer look at!

Grab a coffee and let’s begin!

The Too Faced Melted Liquid Lipstick colour Queen B has 31 ingredients listed. By EU law an ingredient must be listed if it is within 0.001% by weight, on leave on products, or 0.01% by weight, on rinse off product. Not sure what a liquid lipstick is classed as, you do take it off at some point in the night but it does stay on for hours. I think it can be both but strictly speaking it is probably classed as a rinse off product. Anyhow, point here being that only the major ingredients are listed, it is possible that there are ingredients, of tiny amounts, that are not listed here.

Also worth of note is that most often the ingredient lists on cosmetics are written in order of decreasing quantity, even though we don’t know how much that quantity actually is. This means that the first ingredient is the one that this lipstick has the most of and the last is the one that the lipstick has the least off. I am assuming that Too Faced is following this ingredient listing rule, but to be strict, we don’t know, this is another assumption.

 

Ingredient list and analysis:

    1. Isododecane: This is usually a solvent, meaning it is a compound that makes other’s dissolve (aka liquefies other compounds) so that everything becomes a liquid. It is as you can imagine quite important in a liquid product. It is classed as a hydrocarbon molecule meaning that the molecule is only made up of Carbon and Hydrogen atoms, so it is very simple chemistry wise. The name comes from the Greek word “dodeca” which means 12, as it has 12 Carbon atoms.Because it is so simple in structure it also means that it rarely reacts or does anything other than dissolve other compounds and so there is no risk that it will react with anything in your lipstick or your lips or oxidise over time. It’s hydrocarbon structure comes with an added benefit, as it helps “lock in” or prevents moisture from leaving the skin by limiting water escaping the skin (=evaporation). It also makes products more easily spreadable, while giving a weightless feeling to the lips.
      isodecane2

 

It was also reported by some to minimise colour transfer. I definitely thought that this liquid lipstick was weightless and the transfer was minimal, only from the corners of my lips when I would have a drink, so this might actually be a hero liquid lipstick compound.

Often found in: mascaras, lip glosses, eye liners etc.

Also known as: 2,2,4,6,6-pentamethylheptane.

Toxicity: Safe.

 

 

  1. Cyclopentasiloxane: This is an organosilicon compound, meaning that it s made of Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen and Silicon atoms. This compound can also be used as a solvent and it is not very viscous (=it is not thick but rather on the thinner side and easily spreadable) and it enhances fluidity, making a liquid more spreadable.It leaves a silky, slippery feeling to the touch and also “locks in” water by forming a “protective barrier” on the skin, so the water cannot escape (same as isododecane). However, the Silicon atoms in cyclopentasiloxane give this compound the incredible ability to temporarily (as long as you wear it, goes away if you take it off) fill in the “wrinkle” or crease lines and give a more plump look. This is not a permanent filler, it won’t change your skin it will just give a blurred appearance and it won’t make you look fake.cyclopentasiloxane2It provides a silky feeling, without feeling heavy or leaving a greasy residue behind. I helps solubilise (=dissolve, liquify) other larger silicon containing compounds and is often used in combination with dimethicone which this product has too! Standard, predictable formulation here.It has a low boiling point, meaning that it can quickly evaporate from the skin and disappear into the air, after it has delivered the bigger silicon compounds it was meant to dissolve. You can imagine this being part of the “drying step” of the liquid lipstick. What’s even more amazing about the way it evaporates, is that it doesn’t leave a “cold feeling” behind when it goes away, like a lot of other compounds do when they transition from liquid to gas. This means that it won’t make your lips feel strange or cold in that moment. Imagining putting an alcohol on your skin and letting it evaporate. Doesn’t your skin feel cold as it evaporates away? With this one you won’t even notice.It is fairly cheap to manufacture, so doesn’t add a huge cost on the product and is usually used as a cheaper alternative of vegetable glycerine.

    Often found in: moisturisers, foundations, shampoos and conditioners, hair styling products including anti-frizz products, anti-ageing treatments, sun screens, deodorants, liquid lipsticks, lip glosses etc.

    Also known as: decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclopentamethicone, cyclic dimethylsiloxane pentamer, 2,3,4,4,6,6,8,8,10,10-decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

    Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Trimethylsiloxysilicate: This molecule is also an organosilicone, meaning that it contains Carbon, Hydrogen, Silicon and Oxygen atoms. This can be a small molecule (shown in the image) or the name can also refer to a bigger polymeric molecule (a polymer is a molecule with repeating units Si-O-Si-O-Si etc). So many of those smaller molecules shown in the picture can come together to make a bigger, repeating one. It is not clear which one is present in this lipstick.trimethylsiloxysilicate2This is a mild adhesive, meaning that it sticks to your skin softly, helping pigments stay on the skin. It has also been reported to be an anti-foaming and conditioning agent. This compound is usually a solid that contains Silicon, meaning that it is a strong candidate for what ingredient number 2, cyclopentasiloxane, is meant to dissolve. This liquid lipstick formulation is starting to make sense!Because of the silicon and physical thickness of this compound, it also forms a protective barrier that minimises moisture from escaping the skin. It feels weightless on the skin, enhances spreadability of the product and is often used as a replacement instead of oil in emulsions (=an emulsion is two liquids that do not dissolve but rather mix and coexist if you shake them, like for example water and oil). Can give off some shine to the skin.Formulation wise, it is highly compatible with other silicones but also hydrocarbons.

    Often found in: foundations especially due to the mild adhesive properties (to stop the foundation from coming off too much), in bath products, sunscreen, eye makeup, lipsticks, nail polish, hair and skincare products etc.

    Also known as: silicic acid, trimethylsilyl ester.

    Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: This is a polymeric product that is made of branched chains of hydrocarbons, meaning that it is a Carbon and Hydrogen long repeating chain molecule. Usually, polymeric molecules vary in size, because one can make them as short or long as they wish. It is not mentioned in this lipstick how big this polymer chain is.The difference in size would change how thick and heavy the product is, so I cannot imagine that this one here is very large.
    hydrogenated polyisobutene2
    The picture shows a generic example of this molecule and the brackets show the repeating unit which is represented by the number “n”. N could be any number depending on how many times that unit is repeated and therefore how long the molecule chain is. You can see from the repeating structure of the molecule that you could easily make it a bigger chain by simply adding more repeating unit blocks. Just think about it as a long tower of identical Lego blocks that you can add or remove as you wish.This is a synthetic oil, often used as a substitute for mineral oil especially due to its low cost. It prevents water loss again by creating a protective skin barrier and it can act as a mild moisturiser. It is usually used for pigment dispersion, meaning to make the product’s colour even, not patchy. It is an emmolient, meaning that it can soften and smoothen the skin. It can temporarily improve skin texture and it is sometimes used to increase the product’s viscosity (=make it thicker).It does not oxidise, it is stable across a large pH range and it even helps with the spreadability of the product. It feels soft and not greasy.Often found in: sunscreens as it can retain SPF even when exposed to water, lip products, BB creams, skin care, exfoliants, moisturisers, baby care, hair products, shaving gels, antiperspirants etc.Also known as: liquid isoparaffin, 2,2,4,4,6,6,8,8,10,10,12,12,14,14,16,16-hexadecamethylheptadecane (poly).

    Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Kaolin: Is an Aluminium Silicate with a formula repeating unit of Al2Si2O5(OH)4. It is an inorganic compound, meaning it doesn’t contain any Carbon atoms and its 3D-molecular form looks like a layer sheet with a repeating structure of the formula above. It is a natural clay. A clay is a stiff, sticky fine powder that you can mould when wet which can then dry and hold the mould structure to make anything you want like bricks, pottery and ceramics. It is almost pure white in colour (because of the processing and cleaning it goes through, can be light brown when first mined as kaolinite) and can be used as an emollient, meaning that it can soften and smoothen the skin. It can also be used as a drying agent.Its fine powder structure means that it can help cleanse and exfoliate debris and dead skin cells but also absorb any excess oil and water from the skin. Formulation wise it can support products that are self-preserving by taking away any excess water and therefore, inhibiting the reproduction of bacteria, yeasts or molds. Essentially you can call it a desiccant. It can also help control excess oil and shine of the skin. Because of this kaolin can limit the cakyness of a product so if you are oily or experience cakyness you might want to seek this ingredient out. It also works for sensitive or dry skin but it is much better for oily skin.Some report that it can also help brighten the skin and make it more radiant.Often found in: masks or products for oily skin, self-preserving products, body powders, deodorants, scrubs etc.Also known as: China clay, Aluminium Silicate Hydroxide.

    Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Disteardimonium Hectorite: This is also a clay compound but is vegetable derived. It is a white creamy powder that mainly acts as a dispersing agent meaning that it allows the formulation to be mixed well, evenly and smoothly so that other ingredients do not just sink out of the product.disteardimonium hectorite
    It can control viscosity (=how thick the formulation is = thinning ability) and can also serve as an emulsion stabiliser (stops liquids that do not dissolve in each other, like water and oil, from separating in two layers – keeps them mixed). It is often used in combination with pigments, so in coloured products, but not just. It is a non-surfactant, meaning it does not reduce the surface tension of a liquid.Often found in: foundations, eye makeup, face makeup, lipsticks, deodorants and skin care products including face creams etc.Also known as:Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Cyclohexasiloxane: This is an organosilicon compound, meaning that it contains Carbon, Hydrogen, Silicone and Oxygen atoms. It has a cyclic structure with repeating units and can be therefore considered as a small cyclic polymer.It is used as a skin conditioner and emollient (=can soften and smoothen the skin). It feels silky and slippery when applied to the skin and like other Silicone containing compounds it also helps build a protective barrier, minimising skin water loss. It also fills in wrinkles and lines temporarily to make them look more plump.Cyclohexasiloxane
    It gives the product fluidity and makes it spreadable. It is often used together with cyclomethicone also known as cyclopentasiloxane (which this product has, see ingredient number 2) as a carrying and wetting agent. It can help reduce left over residues from products like deodorants. It is also used in hair products to add shine and improve texture.Often found in: deodorants, antiperspirants, face moisturisers and lotions, foundations, anti-ageing treatments, sunscreens, concealers, mascaras, lipsticks, hair products etc.Also known as: 1,3,5,7,9,11-hexaoxa-2,4,6,8,10,12-hexasilacyclododecane.Toxicity: Safe in small quantities but can harm aquatic life.

 

 

  1. Butylene Glycol: This is a small organic compound made of Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen atoms. This ingredient is used as a solvent to dissolve or liquefy other ingredients. It can also control viscosity, meaning how thick a formulation is and can preserve moisture (=it is a humectant). It can also act as a conditioning agent. It can sometimes be used as a fragarance and masking agent. Often found in: lipsticks, foundations, moisturisers, skin care, mascaras etc.butylene glycol
    Also known as: butane-1,3-diol, 1,2- butylene glycol, 1,3-dihydroxybutane, 1,3-butanediol, 3-hydroxy-1-butanol.Toxicity: Safe but can cause irritation to some.

 

  1. Beeswax/Cera Alba?Cire d’ Abeille: This is of course a natural product made by bees! Beeswax is a mixture of compounds with the main one being a wax ester called triacontanyl palmitate, an organic compound made of Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen atoms, shown in the picture.Beeswax is an emollient, meaning that it can soften and smoothen the skin. It is a skin conditioning agent, an emulsion stabilising agent (= stabilises liquids that do not dissolve in each other like water and oil for example, stops them from separating and forming two layers), a depilatory agent, meaning it can remove unwanted hair (like wax for example can remove hair – a sticky agent if you like) and a fragrance ingredient.  It can help with binding the pigment onto the skin and promotes the formation of films. It can also control viscosity by thickening the product without making it a true dry solid.Beeswax is also said to help heal inflammation, bruises and burns and can also help temporarily with itching. It is particularly beneficial for dry skin as it can help moisturise and create a waterproof barrier on the skin. It can also be a source of Vitamin A.Often found in: the main body of mascaras to give a smudge proof and waterproof finish, skin care products, face moisturisers and body creams, lipsticks, lip balms, eye shadows, eye liners, blushes etc.Also known as: Beeswax, Beeswax (Cera alba), Beeswax (Cera flava), Cera alba, Cera alba (Beeswax / Cire d?abeille), Cera alba (Beeswax), Cera alba (Natural beeswax), Cera alba / Beeswax, Cera alba [Beeswax], Cera alba/Beeswax, Cera alba-Beeswax, Cera flava, Cera flava (Beeswax), Cire d?abeille.Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate: This is an organic compound made of Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen atoms. In simple terms, it is a long hydrocarbon chain with an ester functionality. It is a clear, colourless oily liquid.It is a synthetic ester that works as an emollient (softens and soothes the skin), skin conditioner and thickening agent. It can lubricate dry patches on skin and hair and give the products water resistance properties. It is easily spreadable and makes the formulation easily slippery and spreadable and is usually used as a substitute for Spermaceti wax (was from whales). This is a good ingredient for dry skin. Even if your lip skin is not dry, it is a good ingredient to have in a mattifying drying product like a liquid lipstick that tends to “add dryness” to the lips.
    cetyl ethylhexanoate
    Even though it is an oil it only leaves a silky, light feeling to the skin as it is a fairly “dry oil” so it can be used in oily skin formulations too.Often found in: lipsticks, lip glosses, foundations, skin care products, anti-ageing treatments, lip and eye liner pencils, hair products, eye shadows etc.Also known as: Cetearyl Octanoate.Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Dimethicone: This is an organosilicon based polymeric compound meaning that it has Carbon, Hydrogen and Silicone atoms which form repeating units that can make elongated chains. The picture shows the molecule and its repeating unit in brackets. The number n denotes how many times that repeating block is present and therefore how long the molecule is. It is not mentioned in this lipstick how long the molecule present is.It is one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetics. It works as an anti-foaming agent, protects the skin and can act also as a skin and hair conditioner. Like other Silicones it creates a skin barrier (a protective shield) that minimises water loss from the skin. That barrier is also said to help the skin heal faster. It is easily spreadable and creates a subtle gloss on the skin. It has a smooth and silky feeling and can even fill in fine lines and wrinkles temporarily to result in a more plump look.dimethiconeIt is also an emulsifier keeping the formulation better mixed. Some studies have proposed that this ingredient can help soothe and sometimes even treat contact dermatitis. It can reduce redness and is often used in combination with more irritating agents like UV-absorbers (for example titanium oxide or zinc oxide) to neutralise or reduce their irritant effect.If you have oily hair avoid this ingredient as it can heavy down your hair and make it appear more dirty. But this is a lipstick so no worries here.Often found in: food additives, medicinal products, skin care products like moisturisers or other skin treatments like eczema, diaper rashes and dermatitis treatments, in lipsticks, sunscreens, shampoos, conditioners, anti-tangling hair products, foundations etc.Also known as: polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS).

    Toxicity: Safe. This large, heavy polymeric compound does not even penetrate the skin.

 

  1. Ethylhexyl Palmitate: Is a long hydrocarbon chain, a branched saturated fatty ester. By now you are probably noticing that the compounds that go into cosmetics are all fairly similar in structure! This molecule is an organic molecule that is made of Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen atoms. It is a clear colourless and odourless liquid.It is a derivative of palm oil and can act as a milk skin smoother. It is more often used in cosmetics as a solvent (to dissolve, liquefy or carry other compounds) but also as a pigment wetting agent. It can be a good fragrance fixative (=preserves or stabilises fragrances) and emollient (skin softener and smoother).ethylhexyl palmitate
    This compound is often used as a replacement to Silicone compounds, although as this compound has a lot of Silicone compounds it is probably not the case here. It has a slip but dry feeling to it even though it is an oil and can be used to adjust the consistency of the formulation.It can also act as a lubricant and moisturiser and although as a solvent it primarily acts as a carrier and texture improver, it can also act as an adhesive, to hold powders together in a product.Often found in: lotions, cleansers, body washes, lipsticks etc.Also known as: octyl palmitate, hexadecanoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester.

    Toxicity: Safe. Might rarely cause irritation around the eyes but this is a lipstick so all good!

 

  1. Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate: This is a fat, long organic molecule made of Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen atoms. This is a huge molecule, the picture only shows the glyceryl behenate fragment and the structure is compacted in order to be able to show it in a meaningful way. Every R on the structure represents a big molecular chain, see not underneath.It is mainly used to increase the viscosity (= how thick a liquid is) of an emulsion product because of its large molecular weight. It is a skin conditioning agent and an emollient (softens and soothes the skin). It can also act as a surfactant (=reduces surface tension in a liquid) and emulsifying agent (=stabilises an emulsion, makes sure that liquid that would normally not want to mix, can stay together and not separate, like for example water and oil).glycerine behenateIt is non-comedogenic meaning it does not cause pimples or clog the skin’s pores, although we don’t really care about this function in a lipstick. In pharmaceuticals it can also act as a lubricant or tablet coating agent.Often found in: sunscreens, lipsticks, bath salts etc.Also known as: Glyxerol behenate, glycerol docosanoate.Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Helianthus Annuss (Sunflower) Seed oil/Helianthus Annuus Seed oil: This is a mixture of compounds. It is an amber coloured liquid that is derived from sunflowers. Even though it is an oil, it does not leave an oily feeling behind, but it does form a protective barrier on the skin, locking water from escaping (=retains moisture). This oil is rich in Vitamin E, but can also contain Vitamin A and C.It can protect the skin from sun-damage (but it is not as good as a sunscreen) while leaving the skin soft. Because of the mixture of compounds and Vitamins, it is a good anti-ageing agent and it can even help boost the production of new cells because of its oleic and linoleic acid content. It is also good for people with acne, eczema or general skin redness.Often found in: bath products, lipsticks, makeup, cleansing products, hair shampoos and conditioners, skin care products etc.Also known as:Toxicity: Safe. Some people might experience “skin yellowing” after using this.

 

  1. Hydrogen Dimethicone: We’ve seen this molecule in ingredient number 11. It is an organosilicon based polymeric compound, meaning that it has Carbon, Hydrogen and Silicone atoms which form repeating units that come together to make elongated chains. It is exactly the same as ingredient 11 except it has one atom replaced by a Hydrogen atom.This compound is used to form films and might be responsible for drying and forming a film of matt lipstick on your lips.Often found in: anti-ageing products, skin care, lipsticks, blushes, sunscreens, concealers, eye shadows, facial powders etc.Also known as:Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38: Finally something chemically and structurally different! This molecule is a peptide (a peptide is a long chain made up by amino acids).This is a very popular ingredient in expensive cosmetics because it penetrates the skin and boosts the production of collagen and other good molecules such as hyaluronic acid. So this ingredient might help keep your lips naturally plump, as our lips naturally loose volume as we age. This peptide is used in anti-ageing products as it can minimise lines and wrinkles. It can help with skin regeneration giving a youthful, fresh look. There is more evidence of it working on the forehead but I think that’s just because of where most research has been done on.
    Palmitoyl tripeptideThis might sound like a face skin care ingredient but remember your lips are made of skin too! This ingredient elevates this liquid lipstick to another level. Great stuff.Often found in: anti-ageing skin care products and apparently lipsticks too!Also known as: Palmitoyl-Lysyl-Dioxymethiony-lysine, Pal-Lys-Met(O2)-Lys-OH.Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Pentylene Glycol: This is a small organic compound made of Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen atoms. It has two alcohol functionalities (2 x OH) and is therefore classed as a diol.It is a viscous colourless liquid often used as a plasticizer (makes things more plasticky). It is a synthetic humectant, meaning that it can protect or preserve moisture. It can also be used as a solvent to dissolve and liquefy solids and can even be used as a preservative as it has antimicrobial properties. It is both water and oil soluble which makes it very easy to use in formulations. It is also a skin conditioning agent.
    pentylene glycol
    This compound might be one of the compounds responsible for preserving the lipstick and minimizing microbial reproduction, which is very important in a cosmetic product that comes in contact with the mouth which has so many organisms naturally living in it.Often found in: skin care especially moisturisers and products that are prone to microbial growth like lipsticks etc.Also known as: 1,5-pentanediol, pentamethylene glycol, 1,5-dyhydroxypentane.Toxicity: Safe. Some people with sensitive skin have reported sensitisation.

 

  1. Persea Gratissima (Avocado) oil/ Persea Gratissima oil: This is essentially avocado oil and is a mixture of compounds. It is a yellow/green oil, high in Vitamin A, C, D and E and can even contain omega 9 fatty acids which aid skin healing and regeneration. It also contains lecithin and it has antibacterial and anti-wrinkle properties.It can protect against UV light and pollution (not as good as a sunscreen) and even has anti-ageing effects. It is a skin conditioning agent and while it is suitable for all skin types it is particularly good for the dry types. It can also moisturise and soothen and soften the skin. It penetrates the skin to a higher degree than a lot of other oils.Often found in: bath products, soaps, eye makeup, lipsticks, makeup bases, cleansing creams, hair shampoos and conditioners, sunscreens etc.Also known as: –Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Portulaca Pilosa Extract: This is also a mixture of compounds, a plant extract native to the Americas that has pink flowers.It is used as a lip plumper and it improves the lip’s texture. It is a skin conditioning agent and can have soothing properties. It can also act as an anti-oxidant.This ingredient is there to give your lips a little plumpness and ensure that the lips’ skin texture is as ideal as possible for the lipstick to sit on.Often found in: lip products such as lipsticks and glosses.Also known as: kiss-me-quick extract and hairy pigweed extract.Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Propylene Carbonate: This is a small organic, cyclic compound made of Carbon, Oxygen and Hydrogen atoms. It is a colourless and odourless liquid that is often used as a solvent to dissolve or liquefy other ingredients. It can control the viscosity of a formulation, meaning how thick or thin it is. It has a high boiling point which means it doesn’t dry out. It can enhance texture but also helps the formation of films.propylene carbonate
    Often found in: in lipsticks, eye shadows, mascaras, skin cleansing products etc.
    Also known as:
    4-methyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-one and cyclic propylene carbonate.Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Retinyl Palmitate: This is a long organic chain consisting of Carbon, hydrogen and Oxygen atoms. It has mainly a straight chain structure with a cyclic structure at the beginning of the chain. Although it has components from the vitamin A structure (aka retinol) it is not the same ingredient. It is less irritating than retinol. This molecule is converted to retinol Vitamin A by our body which then in turns gets converted to retinoic acid.It can penetrate the outer layers of skin and repair the skin’s elasticity and collagen. It is also considered an exfoliator and can help shed dead skin to produce new cells. This process can thin the skin and make it more prone to sunlight burning so make sure to protect your skin as always with SPF. It is generally a skin conditioning agent and anti-oxidant.retinyl palmitate
    Often found in: hair products, facial makeup, skin care products, lipsticks etc.Also known as: vitamin A palmitate, [(2E,4E,6E,8E)-3,7-Dimethyl-9-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)nona-2,4,6,8-tetraenyl] hexadecanoate, retinol palmitate.Toxicity: Safe. Some people have reported irritation especially in combination with sunlight.

 

  1. Silica Dimethyl Silylate: This is a Silica containing compound. It is made by taking silica and modifying its surface to contain methyl groups (= CH3). The picture shows a ball as a representation of the unmodified silica (a compound with Silica and Oxygen atoms) with the silylate modification on the surface. It is a clear colourless liquid.This is a suspending agent that ensures that all ingredients stay mixed and none of them falls out. It is used as an anti-caking agent and a bulking gent. It can increase the viscosity of the formulation (how thick the product is) while also being an emollient (=soothes and softens the skin). It can thicken, moisturise and provide long lasting wear.silica dimethyl silylate
    It can also be an anti-foaming agent and an emulsion stabiliser. It is also known as a slip modifier, a similar function to viscosity. It is a non-surfactant compound.This might be one of the products that stops the lipstick from cracking.Often found in: lip products, foundations etc.Also known as: Silica [(dimethylsilyl)oxy]- modified.

    Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Sodium Hyaluronate: This is the Sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. If you don’t know what this molecule is and does have a look at my post on “Hyaluronic acid – the fountain of youth?”. It is essentially a polymeric organic compound meaning that it has a lot of repeating units (shown in the picture by a [ ] and numbered by the number n) and is made of Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen and in this case also Sodium atoms. The exact size of this polymer is not given here.800px-Hyaluronan
    This molecule is known as the “fountain of youth” as it plays a major role in anti-ageing processes and is found in embryos in high concentrations. It can hold onto water 1000 times of its weight meaning that it is an amazing moisturiser by locking moisture in. It has been shown to help wounds and burns heal and you can sometimes find it on wound dressings. Other than its anti-ageing properties and its link to increased collagen generation, this compound is also used as a temporary cosmetic filler. It is completely broken down by our body after a while so it is not permanent and you can even have injections to dissolve it.It is an absolute hero compound that is a must have in skin care. I didn’t expect this lipstick to have this, I am pleasantly surprised.Often found in: facial makeup and skincare especially anti-ageing and moisturising products, lipsticks etc.Also known as:

    Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Sorbitan Isostearate: This is an organic compound consisted of Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen atoms. It has a long carbon chain and a cyclic 5-membered ring structure on the opposite side. It is often derived from plants.This is a non-ionic surfactant meaning it reduces the tension of the surface of a liquid and an emulsifying agent meaning it makes sure that all ingredients are mixed and none fall out or create two insoluble liquid layers (like for example water and oil). It can act as a moisturiser and a humectant meaning it can lock water from escaping the skin. It can also thicken and stabilise cosmetic formulations.sorbitan isostearate
    Often found in: Athlete’s foot creams, soaps, lipsticks etc.Also known as: synthetic wax, Octadecanoic acid [2-[(2R,3S,4R)-3,4-dihydroxy-2-tetrahydrofuranyl]-2-hydroxyethyl] ester, sorbitant monostearate.Toxicity: Safe. An approved EU food additive.
  2. Sucrose Cocoate: This is a mixture of sucrose esters and coconut acid naturally sourced from coconuts.This mixture is often used as a skin conditioning agent and an emollient (=soothes and softens the skin). It is a surfactant and emulsifying agent meaning it holds the formulation from separating. It is also a moisturiser and an anti-static agent.Often found in: bath products, cleansing products, shampoos, lipsticks etc.Also known as:Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Tocopheryl Acetate: This form of Vitamin E is used in many formulations including vitamin supplements, because it is more stable and less acidic.This is an anti-oxidant containing acetic acid and Vitamin E so it is a common vitamin supplement. It is also a conditioning agent. It enhances the activity of sunscreen agents (but it is not a sunscreen) and due to is anti-oxidant properties it can be classed as an anti-ageing ingredient. It can moisturise and help with inflammation.This is a hero anti-oxidant molecule. To learn a bit more about why this is a must have in your skincare routine see my “Vitamins C & E – do they work in skincare” post.tocopheryl acetateOften found in: lipsticks, eye shadows, blushes, face powders, foundations, moisturisers, skin care products, bath products, soaps, hair products etc. Basically anything where you want Vitamin E in it!Also known as: Vitamin E acetate, [(2R)-2,5,7,8-Tetramethyl-2-[(4R,8R)-4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl]chroman-6-yl] acetate, Tocopherol acetate.Toxicity: Safe. Some people have reported irritation.

 

  1. Red 7 Lake (CI 15850): This is a pigment organic molecule, a salt to be precise, made of Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen and either Sodium or Calcium atoms. There seems to be some confusion whether the salt is balanced with Sodium or Calcium atoms as both molecules are labelled in certain sources with the same CI 15850 number and name. But it doesn’t matter that much to be honest as that is just the balancing, salt part of the molecule, not the actual main structure. The Scientific Committee on Consumer safety reported this with Sodium so I have drawn in like that in the picture.In cosmetics the term “Lake” is used to indicate pigments or dyes that have been made from precipitating (=crashing out as a solid) metal salts such as for example, Aluminium. Some might be naturally occurring where others are synthetically produced. Lake colours are also usually water soluble.
    Red 7 LakeThis colour is a red with an orange undertone. This is what gives the lipstick part of it’s colour, since this is not a red lipstick it must be mixed with another coloured molecule, see below.Often found in: blushes, lipsticks, face powders, nail varnish etc.Also known as: Red No. 7 D&C Lake, Disodium (or dinatrium or calcium) 3-hydroxy-4-[(4-methyl-2-sulphonatophenyl)azo]-2-naphthoate, D&C Red No. 6, Pigment Red 57, Red 6, Pigment Red 57, Disodium 3-hydroxy-4-[(E)-(4-methyl-2-sulfonatophenyl)diazenyl]-2-naphthoate 2-Naphthalenecarboxylic acid, 3-hydroxy-4-[(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl) azo]-, disodium salt 3-Hydroxy-4-((4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl)azo)-2-naphthalenecarboxylic acid-disodium salt.Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77499): These are also molecules that give colour and as the name suggests they are Iron based. They are small, inorganic molecules meaning there are no Carbon atoms present. Usually, Iron oxide colours are not just one molecule but rather a mixture of Iron oxides. CI 77491 is a red colour and moisture resistant. CI 77499 is a black Iron Oxide.Also known as:
    (CI 77491): Pigment Red 101, E172, Duranat Red Iron Oxide, Pigment Red 101, Iron oxide red.
    (CI 77499):  Pigment Black 11, Duranat Black Iron Oxide.Often found in: any cosmetics that need this colour pigment, lipsticks, soaps etc.Toxicity: Safe. Only for external uses. Do not eat them!

 

  1. Manganese Violet (CI 77742): Also a molecule that gives colour to the lipstick. This one is a Manganese based, incredibly beautiful, violet colour. Must be the main colour in this specific lipstick. It is also an inorganic salt made of ammonium manganese pyrophosphate so it has Manganese, Nitrogen, Hydrogen, Phosphorous and Oxygen atoms. No carbon atoms therefore this is a small inorganic compound. This is usually derived from animals like insects.Manganese Violet
    Often found in: any cosmetics that need this colour pigment, lipsticks etc.
    Also known as:
     Ammonium manganese(3+) diphosphate, C-Violett 11, Manganese Violet, Mangan(iii)ammonium-Diphosphat, Pigment Violet 16, 77742, Manganese Violet (CI 77742).Toxicity: Safe.

 

  1. Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891): This is also a small, inorganic molecule that gives colour to the lipstick. Inorganic molecules are known to be colourful whereas organic molecules tend to be white or yellow so are rarely used as colours. There are exceptions of course where some organic molecules are colours and popular dyes but not as often as inorganic molecules.This molecule does not just provide colour but it can also be used as a sunscreen agent absorbing ultraviolet light and as an opacifying agent.
    titanium dioxide
    Often found in: any cosmetics that need this colour pigment, lipsticks etc.Also known as: titanium (IV) oxide, titania, E171, titanium white, Pigment White 6 (PW6).Toxicity: Safe. Only possesses a risk if it is breathed in as a powder in large quantities. So no worries here.If you enjoyed this type of article please subscribe, share and like! Let me know what you want to see next!

11 responses to Part II: Chemical X-ray – Too Faced Melted Matte Liquid Lipstick Colour Queen B – What is inside and what does it do?

  1. Andi says:

    I just found your blog and thought this was a really interesting read! I’ve never really considered what these chemicals with long names actually do, and I’d love to find out more! I actually just found out tvat in the US, at least, ingredients aren’t actually fully listed in descending order. Ingredients with that are over 1% by weight have to be listed in descending order, followed by ingredients under 1% in any order, followed by any colorants or dyes in descending order.

    Liked by 1 person

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