Part B: Clinique iD Range – In-depth Reviews and Ingredient Analyses of the Cartridges

Clinique recently released a new skincare range called Clinique iD where you can create your custom-blend hydration system.

The customisation part is very easy. Firstly, you have to choose your base out of 3 possible moisturisers, the moisturising lotion, moisturising gel and hydrating gel. Then you have to choose a cartridge out of 5 possible options, which thankfully are also colour coded. The white cartridge is for uneven skin tone, the green for irritation, the orange one for fatigue, the blue for uneven texture and pores and finally, the purple one for lines and wrinkles. What all this means is that there are 3 base moisturisers and 5 possible addon cartridges creating a total of 15 combinations. It’s not really personal customisation but it is a range with a good amount of options.

Clinique iD 8_20190210214908758

Nevertheless, I am dedicating 3 posts on this range in order to go through and analyse all products and options. This post is all about step 2, choosing which addon cartridge is best for you out of the 5 options. In the third post I will be discussing which combinations are best and which ones you should or shouldn’t try out. If you missed the first post on the 3 possible base moisturisers check out: Part A: Clinique iD Range – In-depth Reviews and Ingredient Analyses of the Moisturising Bases

Clinique iD cartridges 3_20190210214205493

In this post I will only be analysing 3 out of the possible 5 cartridges. I didn’t feel that the white cartridge for uneven skin tone or the green for irritation are as good or worth your money as the other 3. Some of the reasons for this include the fact that I don’t think that anyone should need to brighten their skin and if you seriously suffer from irritation or sensitisation issues I would recommend getting different products all together.

With that being said the remaining three cartridges were all equally interesting for different reasons. The the orange one for fatigue, the blue for uneven texture and pores and finally, the purple one for lines and wrinkles. Which cartridge is best? Let’s find out!

 

Packaging

All 3 Clinique ID cartridges come in the same outer and actual product packaging.

The outer packaging for these cartridges has the typical Clinique branding and design and they all look the same with the only difference being the name and colour of the cartridge. I really like the colour coding, it makes the product look beautiful but also allows you to quickly identify which cartridge you are using without reading a single word.

The packaging also reflects the fact that these cartridges are meant to be used in combination with one of the base moisturisers, by having the number 2 on them and showing on the side of the packaging that for number 1 you have a choice between 3 moisturisers.

The actual cartridge products come in a plastic, long tube pump bottle that contains only 10mL of product. They all look the same with the only difference being again the name and colour of the cartridge as well as the actual colour of the liquid product inside.

Clinique iD assembly_20190210213400662

The cartridges initially come in a see-through plastic protective cap. This cap just protects the cartridge from any damage and should be removed before the cartridge can be placed inside the base moisturiser bottle. The cartridge comes with two pumps, one which will deliver the base moisturiser and one that dispenses the cartridge product. The dispense points are so close to each other that the two products mix (but not very well) upon dispensing.

Although these cartridges where designed to be used from inside the base moisturiser bottles, you could still use them on their own if you wanted. The product they contain is sealed and will not be destroyed or contaminated.

Overall, I thought that the cartridges look nice and compliment the base moisturiser bottles very well. The different colours not only help quickly distinguish them from each other but also give the products character.

The only let down for me is the fact that the cartridges are an entirely separated product that can be used independently to the base moisturisers. When I first saw the Clinique iD range I though that the base moisturisers might filter through the cartridge, or something more fancy than just 2 independent products coming out from two separate pumps. On the plus side though, this means that if you like one of the cartridges or one of the base moisturisers you can still use it without having to use the other.

Winner: All cartridges come in the same outer and inner packaging and there is no advantage here for any of them.

 

Price

One 10mL cartridge retails for £10. This makes it exactly £1 per 1mL of product and whether this price is expensive or not completely depends on the ingredients contained. See ingredients section below.

Winner: All cartridges retail for the same price.

 

Texture and Colour

The purple cartridge, for lines and wrinkles has a light purple colour and a transparent watery-gel texture.

The blue cartridge, for texture and pores, has a light blue colour and a transparent watery-gel texture.

The orange cartridge, for fatigue, has a light orange colour and a transparent watery-gel texture.

All colours come from added dyes and neither are natural from the ingredient contained. While I understand that the product colours go nicely with the product branding etc they are completely, skincare-wise, unnecessary here for two reasons. Firstly, dyes do not provide any skincare benefit, in fact for some they can increase the chances of sensitivity and irritation and secondly, you don’t even see them anyways! Since the dispense holes of the two pumps are so close to each other, the much bigger quantity of the moisturiser dispensed covers the cartridge product completely. I never noticed the colours when I used the Clinique iD products together (with the exception of using the clear Hydrating Jelly), only when I was testing the cartridges on their own. Completely unnecessary!

Winner: For the reasons mentioned above, all cartridges are actually loosers in this category.

 

Smell

The purple cartridge, for lines and wrinkles has a light, cosmetic gel-like scent.

The blue cartridge, for texture and pores, almost doesn’t smell of anything. Perhaps very lightly of a cosmetic gel.

The orange cartridge, for fatigue, has a very faint cosmetic gel-like scent.

Winner: Equal. Out of the three cartridges tested, the purple has a the strongest scent and the blue the lightest. However, neither has a strong enough scent to smell without trying hard or when they are combined with a base moisturiser.

 

SPF protection

None of the cartridges contain SPF.

To find out why you need SPF at all times and how much check out: Everything you need to know about sunscreens and SPF

Winner: Equal. Neither cartridge contains SPF.

 

Skin type compatibility

All cartridges are appropriate for all skin types. However, do not use cosmetics on irritated or broken skin.

Winner: Equal. All cartridges are compatible with all skin types.

 

Other

The cartridges don’t have a use-by, xM label, perhaps because they are sealed and protected from air and light.

Here’s what Clinique says about the purple cartridge, for lines and wrinkles: 

Skin Types: Works for all skin types.

What It Is
This customisable moisturiser gives you the power to hydrate and treat your main skin concern, your way. The Active Cartridge Concentrate for Lines Wrinkles helps reduce the look of wrinkles. Add it to your preferred Dramatically Different moisturiser base below, to create your Clinique iD”

 

Here’s what Clinique says about the blue cartridge, for texture and pores:

What It Is
This customisable moisturiser gives you the power to hydrate and treat your main skin concern, your way. The Active Cartridge Concentrate for Pores & Uneven Texture helps retexturize skin. Add it to your preferred Dramatically Different moisturiser base below, to create your Clinique iD.

 

Here’s what Clinique says about the orange cartridge, for fatigue:

Skin Types: Works for all skin types.

What It Is
This customisable moisturiser gives you the power to hydrate and treat your main skin concern, your way. The Active Cartridge Concentrate for Fatigue helps energize and revive glow. Add it to your preferred Dramatically Different moisturiser base below, to create your Clinique iD.

 

Winner: Equal. Nothing in this category favours one cartridge over another.

 

Clinique iD cartridges_20190210214524994

 

Practicality of use – user experience

The cartridges are very easy to use as they come with a pump. One dispensing hole of the pump is meant to dispense the base moisturiser, when the cartridge is placed in the moisturiser bottle, and the other dispenses the actual cartridge product itself.

As expected the amount of cartridge product dispensed is much, much smaller than the amount of moisturiser. That is not a bad thing though, active or good skincare ingredients often come in small quantities and the biggest part or base of a skincare product is usually based on standard skin moisturisers.

The only drawback here is that because of the large amount of base moisturiser dispensed, in comparison to cartridge product, you might not always feel like pressing the pump all the way down as you might be happy with the amount of product dispensed. However, I have noticed a couple of times, and from using the cartridges on their own as well, that sometimes there is no cartridge product dispensed at all unless you press the pump all the way down. This also makes sense as the two pumps are different from each other and are set to work under different pressure and volumes.

Just remember to always press the pump all the way down and if you dispense more product than needed, use it on your neck!

Winner: Equal.

 

Results

As disappointing as this might sound, I haven’t noticed any skincare changes after using these three cartridges. However, as I explained for the moisturisers also, I wasn’t expecting any because the rest of my skincare is good and includes most of the ingredients my skin needs to be healthy.

Additionally, these cartridges don’t include any high skincare value ingredients that can make a quick and huge difference to your skin like for example, vitamin A, ceramides etc. Don’t expect major changes and don’t build your entire skincare around these cartridges. For more info why check out the Ingredients section.

It is worth to note though that all three cartridges leave the skin feeling soft and smooth. Additionally, all three are absorbed quickly and do not leave any residues behind.

Winner: Equal. Neither gave visible skincare results

 

Clinique iD cartridges 4_20190210214351900

 

Ingredients

All cartridges are fragrance free which is great.

The purple cartridge for lines and wrinkles contains 27 ingredients of which 20 will offer you some skincare benefit (some more than others), 4 potential negatives and 7 irritants. Overall, the cartridge is not amazingly impressive but considering the weakness of the base moisturisers, adding a cartridge is a must. Some ingredients contained in the purple cartridge are also contained in some of the base moisturisers, but overall they are added bonuses. There are definitely some good ingredients, like the peptides, but the product is still missing skincare basics, like vitamins, and also high value skincare ingredients like ceramides.

The blue cartridge for pores and uneven texture contains 20 ingredients of which 12 will offer you some benefit, 1 potential negative and 8 irritants. Out of the three cartridges analysed here it is the most disappointing one. The ingredients contained are not particularly impressive and the only ones that are directly related to any texture and pore control, the two AHAs (Glycolic and Lactic Acid), are often preferred for dry/normal skin types due to their water solubility. Oily skin types are the ones mostly concerned about pores and uneven texture and so you would expect them to include BHAs instead (or even better, both AHAs and BHAs) as they are oil soluble and will be able to penetrate oils and “clean” inside pores. While this cartridge does add something to the 3 base moisturisers, it is overall a skincare weak product, missing basics and high value ingredients.

Finally, the orange cartridge for fatigue contains 26 ingredients of which 19 will offer you skincare benefits, 1 potential negative and 8 irritants. The orange cartridge is easily superior to the other two analysed here and it even contains ingredients that will cover the other two’s above said functions, like lines and wrinkles, and uneven texture and pores. I actually had to do a double take to make sure I didn’t confuse the ingredient lists because the orange cartridge would make more sense for pores as it contains both AHA and BHA.

Overall, neither of the three cartridges are skincare gold but they all add something to the weak base moisturisers. They have some overlapping ingredients between them and also with the moisturisers and so you shouldn’t use more than one moisturiser and cartridge in your skincare routine, otherwise the skincare benefit or ingredient variety will be very small.

A quick analysis of the white cartridge for uneven skin tone and green for irritation shows a very similar story.  The best skincare ingredient-wise cartridge is the orange one. The green cartridge seems to have identical ingredients on the Clinique website which I am suspecting is just a typo error. If you truly have sensitive skin these products are not the best for you, not only because they contain unnecessary irritants but also because they do not contain any ingredients that will help build a healthy skin and skin barrier. For this reason alone I would not recommend getting the green cartridge, even if its ingredients are as good as the orange one.

To keep this article short, I am only listing the skin nourishing or skin positive/negative ingredients and ignoring the ones that only play formulation purposes. For the full list of these product’s ingredients scroll down to the “full list of ingredients” section.

 

Ingredient positives:

Ingredient positives for the Clinique iD Active Cartridge & Base for Lines and Wrinkles (purple):

  1. Water\Aqua\Eau based formulation.
  2. Butylene Glycol – Skin conditioner that can also prevent moisture loss from the skin. Sometimes also used as fragrance.
  3. Whey Protein\Lactis Protein\Protéine Du Petit-Lait – Skin conditioner.
  4. Pentylene Glycol – A humectant (=locks water in).
  5. Glycerin – Found naturally in the skin so can be seen as a skin replenishing ingredient. A skin conditioner that helps improve and smooth the appearance of skin. A good moisturiser that is almost always present in moisturising products.
  6. Sodium Citrate – An anti-oxidant and preservative.
  7. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Extract – Skin conditioner.
  8. Caffeine – Potent anti-oxidant, improves puffy eyes, sooths and penetrates the skin providing a constricting effect which reduces redness. Slows down the process of photo-ageing.
  9. Porphyridium Cruentum Extract – A skin conditioner.
  10. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 – Skin conditioner and replenisher.
  11. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 – Supresses inflammation which in turn allows the skin to heal faster. Increases skin’s production of hyaluronic acid and can stimulate the synthesis of collagen, all leading to anti-ageing properties and functions. It can reduce the appearance of uneven skin tones, reduce skin roughness, fine lines, thin skin and wrinkles. A high-end compound and a definite hero.
  12. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 – Stimulates collagen production, conditions and helps restore skin. Can reduce wrinkle length and depth as well as skin roughness.
  13. Micrococcus Lysate – Skin conditioner.
  14. Caprylyl Glycol– Skin conditioner and anti-microbial agent.
  15. Ethylhexylglycerin – A weak preservative and skin conditioner that is often used in ointments for eczema
  16. Taurine – Anti-oxidant that can help maintain skin hydration.
  17. Hexylene Glycol – Skin conditioner.
  18. Lecithin – A lipid that improves skin equilibrium.
  19. Xanthan Gum – Skin conditioner. Holds water and improves the shelf life of the product.
  20. Polysorbate 20 – Can lubricate and sooth the skin.

 

Ingredient positives for the Clinique iD Active Cartridge & Base for Pores and Uneven Texture (blue):

  1. Water\Aqua\Eau based formulation.
  2. Butylene Glycol – Skin conditioner that can also prevent moisture loss from the skin. Sometimes also used as fragrance.
  3. Glycolic Acid – One of the most researched and effective forms of AHA. An exfoliator that can bind water. Due to its exfoliation properties, it can help the skin appear smoother, visibly reducing the signs of ageing and sun damage.
  4. Lactic Acid – An AHA that is naturally produced in the process of bacterial fermentation. Has hydrating properties and can help brighten and even out skin tone.
  5. Pentylene Glycol – A humectant (=locks water in).
  6. Caffeine – Potent anti-oxidant, improves puffy eyes, sooths and penetrates the skin providing a constricting effect which reduces redness. Slows down the process of photo-ageing.
  7. Laminaria Saccharina Extract – Skin protecting, soothing and fragrance.
  8. Caprylyl Glycol – Skin conditioner and anti-microbial agent.
  9. Dimethicone – Creates a barrier and can therefore protect the skin. Also acts as a skin conditioner. It leaves a silky feeling and can even fill in lines temporarily.
  10. Dimethiconol – A skin conditioner that can fill in lines, wrinkles and pores giving a plumper look. Can also create a subtle gloss on the skin and protects the skin from losing water.
  11. Taurine – Anti-oxidant that can help maintain skin hydration.
  12. Xanthan Gum – Skin conditioner. Holds water and improves the shelf life of the product.

 

Ingredient positives for the Clinique iD Active Cartridge & Base for Fatigue (orange):

  1. Water\Aqua\Eau based formulation.
  2. Butylene Glycol – Skin conditioner that can also prevent moisture loss from the skin. Sometimes also used as fragrance.
  3. Glycolic Acid – One of the most researched and effective forms of AHA. An exfoliator that can bind water. Due to its exfoliation properties, it can help the skin appear smoother, visibly reducing the signs of ageing and sun damage.
  4. Pentylene Glycol – A humectant (=locks water in).
  5. Caffeine – Potent anti-oxidant, improves puffy eyes, sooths and penetrates the skin providing a constricting effect which reduces redness. Slows down the process of photo-ageing.
  6. Sodium RNA – A high end, fancy skin conditioner that might have anti-ageing properties.
  7. Salicylic Acid – A BHA, aspirin like compound with anti-flammatory effects which is popular in acne treatments. An effective exfoliator that can penetrate and clean pores. Has anti-microbial properties and can improve skin thickness, barrier functions and collagen production.
  8. Glycerin – Found naturally in the skin so can be seen as a skin replenishing ingredient. A skin conditioner that helps improve and smooth the appearance of skin. A good moisturiser that is almost always present in moisturising products.
  9. Adenosine Phosphate – A high value ingredient, considered the energy source of cell life. Skin conditioner, soother and restoring agent. Good anti-ageing compound.
  10. Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract – Skin replenisher and conditioner.
  11. Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract – This ingredient has multiple benefits including: anti-oxidant, fragrance, skin conditioner, UV light absorber, anti-microbial, astringent, skin protecting, tonic and possibly helping the appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin.
  12. Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine – A lipid based conditioner.
  13. Acetyl Carnitine HCl – Skin conditioner.
  14. Phospholipids– Skin replenishing molecules. Skin conditioner. Essential for healthy and youthful skin.
  15. Lactobacillus Ferment– Skin conditioner.
  16. Caprylyl Glycol – Skin conditioner and anti-microbial agent.
  17. Taurine – Anti-oxidant that can help maintain skin hydration.
  18. Hexylene Glycol – Skin conditioner.
  19. Xanthan Gum – Skin conditioner. Holds water and improves the shelf life of the product.

 

Ingredient negatives:

Ingredient negatives for the Clinique iD Active Cartridge & Base for Lines and Wrinkles (purple):

  1. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 – Some studies show that this peptide might not penetrate very far into the skin meaning that it’s benefits might be smaller than expected.
  2. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 – Might cause skin discoloration to some.
  3. Lecithin – Generally considered safe but some suspect this to be a carcinogen. However, there is no proof.
  4. Blue 1 (Ci 42090), Red 33 (Ci 17200) – Added dyes that give the gel it’s purple colour. Dyes do not offer any skincare benefit but can cause sensitisation or irritation to some. Some dyes can bioaccumulate and others are suspected carcinogens. While there is not much evidence for either, they are an unnesecary risk in cosmetics. Dyes are added for the psychological benefit of creating a product that looks the part and you will believe in. Different colours being associated with different functions is something that has been extensively studied and there are examples even from placebo drug trials.

 

Ingredient negatives for the Clinique iD Active Cartridge & Base for Pores and Uneven Texture (blue):

  1. Ext. Violet 2 (Ci 60730), Blue 1 (Ci 42090) – Added dyes that give the gel it’s blue colour. Dyes do not offer any skincare benefit but can cause sensitisation or irritation to some. Some dyes can bioaccumulate and others are suspected carcinogens. While there is not much evidence for either, they are an unnesecary risk in cosmetics. Dyes are added for the psychological benefit of creating a product that looks the part and you will believe in. Different colours being associated with different functions is something that has been extensively studied and there are examples even from placebo drug trials.

 

Ingredient negatives for the Clinique iD Active Cartridge & Base for Fatigue (orange):

  1. Red 4 (Ci 14700), Yellow 5 (Ci 19140) – Added dyes that give the gel it’s orange colour. Dyes do not offer any skincare benefit but can cause sensitisation or irritation to some. Some dyes can bioaccumulate and others are suspected carcinogens. While there is not much evidence for either, they are an unnesecary risk in cosmetics. Dyes are added for the psychological benefit of creating a product that looks the part and you will believe in. Different colours being associated with different functions is something that has been extensively studied and there are examples even from placebo drug trials.

 

Ingredients that can cause irritation to some:

This is actually really case specific, as different people have different sensitivities and allergies. Just because a compound has been reported by some to cause sensitivity, it doesn’t mean you will have an issue. “Sensitizer” compounds being present is not a negative in my opinion, as this is the case with pretty much everything out there and funnily enough I’ve seen products that are targeted specifically for sensitive skin, containing some compounds that have been reported by some, or are known to be, sensitizers.

If you have sensitive skin or you are prone to skin sensitisation and unwanted reactions, try a little bit of this at the back of your hand first and consult a medical doctor if you are concerned. Never use cosmetics on irritated or broken skin.

Check out: What is sensitive skin? What are the causes and what can we do?

The following compounds present in the purple cartridge have been either proven or claimed by some to be sensitizers, irritants, allergens etc: Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Caffeine, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Blue 1 (Ci 42090), Red 33 (Ci 17200).

The following compounds present in the blue cartridge have been either proven or claimed by some to be sensitizers, irritants, allergens etc: Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycolic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Caffeine, Phenoxyethanol, Ext. Violet 2 (Ci 60730), Blue 1 (Ci 42090).

The following compounds present in the orange cartridge have been either proven or claimed by some to be sensitizers, irritants, allergens etc: Butylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Caffeine, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Red 4 (Ci 14700), Yellow 5 (Ci 19140).

Do not use the orange cartridge if you have an aspirin sensititivity or allergy.

 

Full list of ingredients:

Clinique iD Actrive Cartridge & Base for Lines and Wrinkles (purple): Water\Aqua\Eau, Butylene Glycol, Whey Protein\Lactis Protein\Protéine Du Petit-Lait, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium Citrate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Extract, Caffeine, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Micrococcus Lysate, Pullulan, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Taurine, Hexylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol, Blue 1 (Ci 42090), Red 33 (Ci 17200).

Clinique iD Actrive Cartridge & Base for Pores and Uneven Texture (blue): Water\Aqua\Eau, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Caffeine, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Laureth-23, Laureth-4, Taurine, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Edta, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ext. Violet 2 (Ci 60730), Blue 1 (Ci 42090).

Clinique iD Actrive Cartridge & Base for Fatigue (orange): Water\Aqua\Eau, Butylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Caffeine, Sodium Rna, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Adenosine Phosphate, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Acetyl Carnitine Hcl, Phospholipids, Lactobacillus Ferment, Caprylyl Glycol, Taurine, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Stearic Acid, Disodium Edta, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Red 4 (Ci 14700), Yellow 5 (Ci 19140).

 

Clinique iD cartridges 2_20190210214111518

 

Verdict

Who would have thought that the best ingredient cartridge is actually the orange one for fatigue. It is by far superior to the other cartridges and even contains some ingredient that can address some of the other cartridges’ purposes, like pores and lines.

With the exception of the orange cartridge, which could be somewhat valuable if combined with a good moisturiser (not the 3 bases of Clinique iD), the others are almost as weak as the moisturisers themselves.

Overall, the cartridges do add skincare value to the moisturisers but that’s simply because the moisturisers are weak to begin with. Neither the cartridges or moisturisers are the best skincare your money can buy, even for simple reasons such as having overlapping ingredients between them and missing basic skincare goodies such as vitamins C and E.

 

I am not affiliated with any company or brand. These are my views and experiences.
Beauty is a very personal thing, we all have different skin, requirements and biological build which can influence things. What worked for me might not work for you and vice versa. Have you ever tried these products? Did they work for you? Let me know your experiences below!

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3 responses to Part B: Clinique iD Range – In-depth Reviews and Ingredient Analyses of the Cartridges

  1. zakeeyak says:

    I’m finding this series super interesting reading. I was really keen on purchasing something from this range – now I’ll just save my money!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Glad you are enjoying it. It is disappointing as the products look quite interesting but sadly are just mediocre to weak ingredient-wise.

      Like

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